That nostalgic journey stretching from Ankara to Kars, where a white movie flows from your window.
The moment you settle into the compartment, it becomes your little world. Decorating the room with portable lights you brought, setting a table with stuffed vine leaves and pastries brought from home is the ritual of this business. Sleeping accompanied by that slight swaying of the train, waking up to a white steppe in the morning is indescribable. Greeting other passengers in the corridor, maybe offering a glass of tea, makes you relive that neighborhood culture of Anatolia which is about to be forgotten. There is no rush here, no stress; only the 'moment'.
One of the most exciting parts of the train journey is the long break given at Erzurum station. As soon as the train stops, a rush begins; the target is clear: Famous Cağ Kebab! You can order in advance and have it brought to the station or run to a nearby restaurant. In that cold air, the taste of lamb meat wrapped in hot lavash takes away the fatigue of the journey. This break is not just a food break, but also an opportunity to breathe that harsh but brave air of Erzurum.
It is impossible to arrive in Kars and not go to Ani Ruins. Established at ground zero of the Armenian border, by the Arpaçay river, this ancient city shows you how sad history can be. While walking among the church ruins under the snow, Fethiye Mosque (old cathedral), and ruined walls, the sound of the wind tells you old stories. This place is the silent witness of how civilizations rise and fall. The feeling of loneliness and awe you will feel while walking in that vast emptiness will touch your soul.
"Imagine a time period where you are not in a rush to get anywhere, focusing only on the conversation of the person next to you and the snow view outside in places where the phone has no signal. Eastern Express is like a moving hotel reminding us to 'slow down' in defiance of the speed of the modern world. Brew your tea, take your favorite book, and let yourself go to that rhythmic clatter of the wagon. This journey promises much more than your destination."
The biggest entertainment of Kars in winter is the completely frozen Lake Çıldır. Walking on it, riding horse sleighs, watching fishermen fishing on ice Eskimo style... These experiences give one the feeling 'I am on another planet'. Eating the 'Yellow Carp' fish coming out of that icy water in the log cabins by the lake is a Kars classic. While your cheeks turn red from the cold, the taste of the hot tea you drink is like nothing else. Çıldır is the harshest but most beautiful face of nature.
The journey to Kars with the Eastern Express is actually an expedition one makes into oneself. While looking at that endless whiteness of Anatolia, you question life and enjoy friendship and sharing. The human warmth that warms you in that freezing cold of Kars, the silent scream of Ani Ruins, and the fairytale atmosphere of Lake Çıldır... This experience is much more than a frame to be shared on Instagram; it is a memory to be told for a lifetime. If you haven't done it yet, do yourself a favor this winter and buy that ticket.
